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Beychevelle, Du Tertre, Suduiraut, and More
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It is fair to state that the Bordeaux 2022 vintage threw up several surprises. The hot and dry weather conditions throughout the year set record highs for temperature and lows for rainfall. Another surprise was how well the vines seemed to handle these conditions, although yields are down, with berries being very small and thick-skinned. The third and final surprise is how well the resulting wines have turned out, with many showing remarkable freshness and balance, with superb aromatics combined with the structure to age. Not all chateaux fared well, but those who had put in the hours in their vineyards and understood how to handle the grapes when they arrived in their cellars have produced an exciting set of wines.
- The temptation to make comparisons with previous hot, dry vintages such as 1976 or 2003 should be resisted. Instead, 2022 has more in common with 2005, 2009, 2010, and 2018.
- Merlot, often grown on clay soils which retain moisture, particularly on the Right Bank, showed particularly well in this vintage, conveying an unusual level of aromatics and complexity.
- This was a vintage which demonstrated the advances in viticulture since 2003. The use of cover crops between rows of vines aided water retention, unlike the bare soils prevalent in 2003. Canopy management, particularly the use of foliage to shade ripening grapes, has advanced considerably.
- Most vignerons now recognize the crucial importance of harvesting dates. Those who made the wrong decision failed to capture the optimum balance between sugar, acidity, and physiological ripeness.
- The top chateaux are now equipped with an array of fermentation vessels of varying sizes, enabling them to harvest small blocks at the optimum level of ripeness.
- This was a vintage which favoured properties with a high proportion of mature vines. Young vines lack the deep roots to access water, particularly on sandy or gravel soils.
- High tannin and alcohol levels but notably low malic acid levels. The high pH encourages microbial spoilage so wines are more vulnerable to develop volatile acidity and Brettanomyces during élevage.
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TERMS & CONDITIONS
- BOTTLING Prices are for standard 750ml bottles. Wines can be bottled in half bottles, magnums, or other formats for an additional charge. Please provide special bottling instructions before 31 August 2023.
- STORAGE There will be storage charges if we do not receive any shipping instructions before 30 Nov 2024. The charge will be HK$300 per annum per case or per large format bottle (9L-case). Cellarage invoices will be raised on 1 January 2025. If you wish to collect your wine early, we will refund you the remaining full month(s) storage fee on a pro-rata basis.
- SHIPPING COST HK$180 per case inclusive of insurance. Please instruct us in advance for special shipping arrangements.
- OFFER Please note that the following wines are offered ex-cellars Bordeaux. And they are available in units of 6 or 12 bottles per case. The minimum order will be 12 bottles (750ml) per wine. They will be available for delivery in Spring/Summer 2025. Payment upon receipt of invoice.
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*Denotes limited availability | WA = William Kelley | JS = James Suckling |
AG = Antonio Galloni | JR = James Lawther
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CHÂTEAU BEYCHEVELLE, SAINT-JULIEN 2022
WA 92-94, JS 94-95, JR 17.5
€79.50 / 750ml
WA 92-94… Unwinding in the glass with aromas of dark berries, cherries and cassis mingled with hints of violets and licorice, framed by creamy new oak, the 2022 Beychevelle is medium to full-bodied, velvety and layered, with a fleshy core of fruit framed by rich, unusually suave and polished tannins in the context of recent vintages at this address. It's
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a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and 4% Petit Verdot, with a pH of 3.85, quite typical for this address.
JS 94-95… The tannins are very well-integrated with lovely bright fruit of currants and blackberries. Medium to full body. Vivid and pretty. 54% cabernet sauvignon, 42% merlot and 4% petit verdot.
JR 17.5… Fragrant and floral on the nose. Lovely texture and tannins, the palate satiny and fine. Pure, fresh and long as well. Nothing overstated and plenty of charm.
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CHÂTEAU DU TERTRE, MARGAUX 2022
WA 92-94+, JS 95-96, AG 90-92, JR 16
€35.00 / 750ml
WA 92-94+… The 2022 du Tertre unwinds in the glass with aromas of dark berries, plums, licorice, vine smoke and petals, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and layered palate of uncommon depth and concentration that nevertheless retains all the estate's signature elegance. Polished and supple, it's a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon,
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23% Cabernet Franc, 15% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, which more or less represents this estate's varietal breakdown after its extensive replanting program is complete. This looks likely to emerge as the finest du Tertre in several decades, and it is sure to be one of the better values of the en primeur campaign.
JS 95-96… This is really clear and bright. Medium- to full-bodied with a solid tannin structure. Tight layers of phenolics to this. Racy and long finish. Firm and focused. 57% cabernet sauvignon, 23% cabernet franc, 15% merlot and 5% petit verdot.
AG 90-92… The 2022 du Tertre is packed with inky black fruit, gravel, incense, tobacco, licorice and chocolate. Opulent and intense to the core, the 2022 packs a serious punch. That comes through in tannins that are also pretty imposing.
JR 16… Blackish purple. Super-ripe nose. Rather cool-tasting! Lots of fruit concentration and a fair amount of obvious, very slightly rustic tannin on the end. Just a bit more jagged in texture and workmanlike than a typical Margaux.
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CHÂTEAU LA TOUR CARNET, HAUT MEDOC 2022
WA 88-90, JS 92-93, AG 91-93, JR 16.5
€25.90 / 750ml
WA 88-90… A blend of 59% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 1% Cabernet Franc, the 2022 La Tour Carnet offers up rich aromas of cassis, blueberry, warm spices and pencil shavings, framed by toasty new oak. Fresh and slightly menthol-tingled, the palate is medium to full-bodied, with a fleshy core of fruit and firm structuring tannins that assert themselves on the finish.
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JS 92-93… A juicy red with redcurrants and flowers. Dark stones, too. Medium body with creamy tannins and a juicy finish. Polished and balanced.
AG 91-93… The 2022 La Tour Carnet is packed with dark cherry, plum, chocolate, leather, licorice and espresso. Potent and heady, with tons of tannin, the 2022 is shaping up to be one of the under the radar wines of the year. Tasted two times.
JR 16.5… Cask sample. Reserved, dark-fruit aroma. Full and plush on the palate but fresh and balanced as well. Plentiful tannins but ripe and rounded. Persistent if a little chewy on the finish. Oak needs to fully integrate.
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CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT, SAUTERNES 2022
JS 98-99, AG 92-94, JR 18+
€56.00 / 750ml
JS 98-99… Wow. This is incredibly concentrated with such depth and power. Dried oranges. Full-bodied with some phenolic tension that frames the wine perfectly. Dried apricots and peaches. Incredible richness and freshness. Spicy and flavorful. Tastes more like a BA from Germany! 100% Semillon.
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AG 92-94… The 2022 Suduiraut is laced with hints of tangerine peel, spice, vanillin, chamomile and dried flowers. It offers a lovely mix of botrytis-inflected flavors and textures while also showing quite a bit of freshness. The 2022 is done in the lighter style the château favors these days. My impression is that it is still coming together, as the wine shows a very slight lack of cohesion that is not typical.
JR 18+… Deep gold colour. Aromatically resplendent. Great purity as well. Honey, marmalade and tropical-fruit notes. Botrytis evident. Palate rich, luscious and intense. Sweet and packed with fruit, the bitter edge of the botrytis providing balance. Very long finish.
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CHÂTEAU SUDUIRAUT VIEILLES VIGNES GRAND VIN BLANC SEC, BORDEAUX 2022
JS 94-95, AG 92-94, JR 16+
€42.00 / 750ml
JS 94-95… A classic Sauternes with dried peaches, lemon zest and crushed stone character. Full body. Layered and phenolic. Dry at the end. 55% semillon and 45% sauvignon blanc.
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AG 92-94… The 2022 Grand Vin Blanc Sec Vieilles Vignes is laced with hints of lemon confit, marzipan, ginger, white flowers and white pepper. The 2022 is quite reticent today, which is probably a good sign for its aging prospects. The 2022 has a phenolic-like quality that imparts notable structure.
JR 16+… Pale straw. Citrus and aniseed notes, the Sauvignon present but less marked. Good fruit depth, the palate full and gras with a hint of integrated oak. Harmonious if a pinch flat but should evolve.
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CHÂTEAU CLIMENS, BARSAC 2022
JR 17.5
€125.00 / 750ml
JR 17.5… Golden hue. Fragrant but understated with mandarin, spice and vanilla notes. Rich but fresh and balanced. Bitter-botrytised notes and great persistence. Saline note on the finish. Elegance and finesse.
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